Sunday, March 20, 2011
Here comes a big one!
I love that feeling I get when I catch that edge of a glimpse of something deep blue building outside. I turn to paddle and almost in unison the only other guy out spins to do the same. Here comes a big one. I am going to be on that I think as I watch it grow, stroking the slick surface. That's when a crow builds in the throat, like Peter Pan. Just pure joy, impossible to keep in. This is who we are. This is the most intimate place. This pure joy in the possibility of something amazing about to happen. We surfers know it well. And the feeling that follows it. The weightlessness in time. A little like suspension of disbelief. A moment where anything is possible, and we go. Here comes a big one!